Hurtigrute - 10 Things You Should Know!

Hurtigrute – The Norwegian coastal route. It’s a name that conjures up pictures of majestic fjords, snow-covered mountains rising from clear blue waters and the solemn spectacle of the northern lights overhead. For many, taking a trip along this route is the fulfilment of a lifelong dream. This certainly was the case for me. However, I regularly come across questions and comments about the route on social media that show that there are a lot of misconceptions about the route. I understand that, the very nature of the coastal route means that traveling along it will be a very different experience from being carted around the Mediterranean for a week. That’s what this post is about. Based on my own experience of having travelled along the entire route in November, here are ten things you should know about the Norwegian coastal route.

This is Not a Cruise!

This might sound strange, given that the ships operating on the coastal route tend to look like cruise ships that were run through the wash at too high a temperature, but the primary purpose of this route is to provide passenger and cargo connections to remote communities along the Norwegian coast. Havila Kystruten and Hurtigruten, the two companies operating on the route, each receive a subsidy from the Norwegian government to provide this service. That’s why a ship leaves Bergen every day headed north, and why one leaves Kirkenes every day headed south. That is why these ships have a large cargo hatch on the port side. That’s why there are dedicated sleeper seat lounges for port-to-port passengers, that’s why there are port calls at all times of the day and night, and that’s why some of these port calls are only ten minutes long.

This ain’t Cunard!

Don’t get me wrong, the ships on the coastal route are comfortable. But there’s nothing fancy about the experience. Utility is the primary focus, and even fine-dining options like Havila’s Hildring restaurant are pretty low-key affairs, with jeans and a hoody being perfectly acceptable dinner attire. Given the amazing scenery you’ll be sailing through, not to mention the the fact that the announcement that the Northern Lights are out could come at any time, especially in late autumn, winter and early spring, this practicality is key. So dress for comfort and the weather, rather than for style!

There’s no Entertainment!

And that’s just fine. The real star of this journey is the landscape which changes from day to day, sometimes from hour to hour. From wind-swept skerries to deep, sweeping fjords, small waterside hamlets to soaring peaks or bustling cities, the verdant green around Bergen to the austere Arctic wilderness of the far north and of course the ethereal dance of the northern lights, there’s plenty to see all around you. Also, whilst there generally are no music acts or stage performances aboard, the onboard expedition team still puts out a pretty diverse program of onboard activities. Between this, the landscape, and the plethora of shore excursions, you won’t be bored!

You won’t go hungry!

This question pops up pretty regularly and, speaking from my experience aboard Havila Castor, I can emphatically confirm that you won’t go hungry. There are multiple options available for pretty much every dietary preference out there, with the possible exception of pure photosynthesis during the winter months. And don’t worry about being inundated with fish. Whilst I personally ended up overdosing on cod during my trip, there’s plenty of steak, lamb or pork available as well, and of course vegetarian options. That still doesn’t change the fact that I’ll run to the hills if you offer me any cod!

Cash is not King!

Unlike many other countries, Norway is pretty much completely cashless. From bus tickets to convenience stores & supermarkets to taxi rides, dining, souvenirs or entrance fees, everything can be, and usually is, paid for either by card or by device payment services such as Apple Pay or Google Wallet. I didn’t see one cash transaction during my entire trip. If you’re someone who normally prefers cash, I recommend getting a prepaid card and topping that up with whatever amount you see fit. Just be aware that Norway is expensive, as well as cashless!

You’ll be right in the middle of things!

The ships on the coastal route are more like buses or ferries. As such, with the exception of Bergen, they’ll eschew the traditional cruise ship terminal and use their own dedicated facilities, which will often put you right in the middle of town. Given that most of the larger cities on the route also see port calls of several hours, that gives you plenty of time to explore the surroundings. Just make sure you’re back on the ship in time. Speaking of which…

The ships will not wait!

Because of the importance of the coastal route for so many local communities, the ships operating on the route need to watch their schedule even more carefully than regular cruise ships. As such, they will absolutely not wait for individual stragglers, and the company will not hesitate to cancel shore activities if they need to speed up their turnaround in order to get back on schedule!

Mother Nature is Boss!

The Norwegian coast may be breathtakingly beautiful but it can also be a harsh mistress. There are numerous sea areas along the coastal route that have a reputation for being rough, and Norway often feels the full force of Atlantic or Arctic storm systems. As such port calls may need to be cancelled, or journeys cut short, either because it’s to dangerous to press on, or because the ship needs o go in for repairs after a particularly rough ride. Don’t get me wrong, the ships in use on the route are tough, but both he North Atlantic and the Barents Sea have a reputation. The same goes for the land side of things. Roads may have to be closed due to avalanches or snow drifts, whilst storms and blizzards may make an otherwise good road impassable at short notice. These things do happen, and you do need to be ready for that.

You’re not in charge!

Going hand in hand with the above, you need to be flexible when taking a trip on the coastal route. Things may not always go according to plan, excursions you’re looking forward to may have to be cancelled or cut short, as happened to me. And quite frankly, you need to be able to roll with the punches. As I mentioned above, Mother Nature is the one calling the shots here. On that note…

Sea Sickness medication is not optional!

The ships on the coastal route are smaller than most regular ferries or cruise ships As such, you will feel more movement than you’d get, say on the ferry from Oslo to Kiel. You’ll feel the ship heeling over in a hard turn. In addition, even on the calmest trip, the ships will be affected by ground swell rolling in from the open Atlantic. So I do recommend keeping a package or two of seasickness medication ready. Whether you opt for tablets, patches or wrist bands is up to you.