Sim Dubai - Dubai Trip Report, Part 3

Day 3 in Dubai - My Alarm goes off way too early, apparently that flight, plus the initial exploration yesterday took more of a toll on me than I realised. Getting out of bed is a bit of a challenge, as is getting showered, everything seems to take longer than expected. This includes getting to Club Rotana for breakfast, but then again, that is 59 floors down, and even with gravity doing it’s best to assist, that takes a bit of time for the elevator to cover. Still, having breakfast separate from the main hotel restaurants is quite nice, especially since it is rather quiet. I’m not sure how I feel about the turkey bacon, though. After a nice breakfast, and some coffee, it’s back upstairs to plan my day.

The plan is formed pretty quickly: Spend the first part of the afternoon exploring the Palm Jumeirah, before checking out the Dubai Marina in the late afternoon. Before I leave, I take one more good look at the amazing vista from my hotel room. I just can’t get enough of that.

I’m off to the Metro again, heading south towards Jumeirah Lakes Towers. There, I transfer over onto the Dubai Tram. Yep, you read that right, Dubai has a small tram system, linking the Marina to Al Sufouh. While it seems like a bit of a gimmick at the moment, it is eventually planned to run the line all the way along the waterfront to Jumeirah Beach. As it stands, it links the metro stations DAMAC Properties and Jumeirah Lakes Towers with the Marina Mall, Palm Jumeirah and the Knowledge village in Al Sufouh. Like all public transport in Dubai, the tram is completely air-conditioned, both the trains and the stations. Another unique feature of the Dubai Tram is its power supply. Instead of the usual catenary wires, the trains of the Dubai Tram use a ground level power supply integrated into the road surface, similar to the third rail used by many metro systems. Since involuntary electrocution of passengers and other road users is considered to be bad for business, the rail is divided into small segments, and only the segments underneath a tram are powered. Thus, even if a train has just left a crossing, it is perfectly safe to step onto the power rail.

One of the trains of the Marina Tram approaching a stop in the Marina area.

The tram stop for the Marina Mall.

While the approaches to the stop are not air-conditioned, the interior certainly is.

The Dubai Marina is truly a sight to behold. It should seem familiar to anyone who has ever played SimCity 4, Cities XL, or Cities Skylines. In fact, it seems like it was taken straight from one of those games, and every now and then, I look up, just to make sure that there’s not a giant mouse pointer coming after me ;) However, once I arrive at Palm Jumeirah station, the immersion is pretty much broken immediately. 

The Palm Jumeirah is served by a dedicated monorail running along its “trunk”. However, it soon becomes apparent that this massive development was planned at a time when the public transit infrastructure in Dubai was much simpler than it is today. There is a link bridge between the tram station and the monorail terminus, however this bridge is not air-conditioned, meaning you get the full blast of the Dubai heat when walking to the terminus. In addition, the walkway to the monorail leads straight through the multi-level garage, which of course is not air-conditioned either. Once you reach the actual station, the next bit of disappointment occurred. While the ticket scanners and platform barriers were identical to those used by the Dubai Metro, nol Cards were not accepted. You have to buy a separate ticket for the Palm Monorail. Also, the station was not quite as spotless as those of the tram or the metro. There is a bit of neglect visible, which is understandable given the number of times that the Palm Jumeirah project almost stalled. 

No air condition here. To get from the tram to the Palm monorail, you're exposed to the elements. Not so bad in winter, but I can't imagine how that must feel during the summer months.

The interior of the monorail trains is spacious, to say the least. 

As the trains are remotely operated, there's a great view out the front.

There’s nothing wrong with the trains though, on the contrary. They are very spacious, and the benches and seats are vastly superior even to my sofa at home! In fact, they almost seem oversized given the number of passengers. The ride is very comfortable, except for a light swaying motion that seems to be unavoidable with monorails. It is also spectacular, bridging the crystal clear waters of the Gulf on two locations. For the most part though, it passes over a large park and greenway in the center of the “trunk” of the Palm. Much of this trunk is by now developed with housing and retail, and there are also two finished monorail stations serving this development. However, both are closed, for no apparent reason whatsoever. As the trains slow when passing these station, it becomes apparent that these stations have apparently never been used, judging by the thick layer of dust on the inside. Two more stations are also currently under construction. Whether Nakheel Properties, the company developing the Palm, wants to wait until these two stations are finished before opening them all at once remains to be seen. For now, it adds to the impression that the Palm Monorail is a bit like an unwanted stepchild. 

My only view of the famed Burj al Arab.

And my only view from the tip of the palm.

Lots of renewed construction activity is going on at the Palm. I hope that  the missing monorail stations are opened soon as well.

Not that my impression changes at the final stop, Atlantis Aquapark. I can understand that they kept the station separate from the multiple hotel complexes there, however I am disappointed that there is no safe way to access the seafront. All footpaths lead to either the Aquapark, one of the hotels, or the inevitable shopping mall. With so little use being made of such a prime side, it almost makes you wonder whether the architect in charge was Irish. With my hopes of a nice refreshing seaside walk, in 33 degrees, dashed, I spent some time in the mall, before making my way back to the monorail, and the Dubai Marina. Time to check that out.

Restaurants like this stretch all along the central "park" of the Palm.  Too bad they're not accessible from the monorail.

Ghost stations like this...

...or this are a common sight on the monorail.

Okay, admittedly, the Marina itself is not a tourist attraction, I give you that. It is however a sight to be seen, and that SimCity feeling I mentioned above is back and overwhelming within minutes of stepping off the tram. Any thoughts of walking or even cycling along the marina are dashed by the increasing humidity, so I decide to top up my nol Card and grab a water taxi. A word of advice here: While Dubai water taxis do accept these cards, they only work with credit, not with any travel passes, so keep that in mind. The water taxis themselves are thankfully air-conditioned, and rather comfortable. However, they also seem to be rather under-utilised, maybe due to their restriction to the Marina, or the time of day. After a bit of scouting around, I make my way to the marina mall for a late lunch.

View towards the Marina from the Palm monorail.

Presenting: The Dubai Marina.

I can only imagine how busy this place must be in the evenings.

Believe me, that little bastard in that palm is loud...

Some building repetition issues, I see. Just watch out for any mouse pointers in the sky ;)

Water taxis like this are a good way of getting from A to B in the Marina.

The Marina Mall as viewed from, well, the marina.

Turning Torso on the Gulf. Someone has been channeling Malmö, I see.

It is really hard to capture decent photos of the Marina. It's all so... vertical.

Yes, Nextbike is active in Dubai as well. No, I did NOT try it out there!

I haven't figured out either the schedule or the destination of the ferries moored here.

Is anyone else...

...getting a certain...

...SimCity vibe here?

DAMAC Properties metro station is one of the two metro station that offers connections to the Marina Tram.

A colleague of mine had mentioned that burgers and other similar fast food were quite an experience in Dubai, and my lunch at Five Guys Burger Co. in the Marina Mall quickly confirmed that to me. The burger was nice and of high quality, but the fries, whoah mama, they sure added some spice to it. I was still looking for a fire extinguisher 45 minutes later. Apart from that, the Marina Mall is okay-ish by Dubai standards. Clean, relatively compact, but with a rather generic collection of shops and eateries. Mind you, it would still be a crown jewel for a city like Cork, or even for Dublin, which is not really that special anyway, however, it kinda disappears against the competition of the Dubai Mall, the Mall of the Emirates, or the Ibn Battuta Mall. By the time I finish browsing through the stores there, the sun is beginning to set, so I make my way first to the tram, and then to the subway. I quickly scout out the Dubai Mall, chiefly to find the entrance to the Burj Khalifa, for which I have tickets for the next day. That place is a maze!

As the shops continue to be outside of my price range, I decide to make my way back to my hotel, as I can feel the heat starting to get to me. The timing is perfect, as I can get some long-time exposure shots at dusk, which look quite spectacular. Or should do so if the windows were clean. But hey, this is the 65th floor, I can kinda understand why the window cleaners don't come by here too often. After a light dinner and nightcap in the 6th floor lounge, I turn in for the night.

I just can't get enough of that view....

Day 4 - Following another night in an AC blizzard, I feel rather drained. A quick shower puts that matter right, however, one of my feet gets rather cozy with the rim of the bathtub on the way out. The resulting stumble causes the bath mat, on which the other foot is standing, to get the hell out of Dodge, which again sends my shoulders and arm racing towards a rendezvous with the bathroom door, which thankfully opens inwards, and therefore won’t budge. Still, it takes about ten minutes until I can move my arm again without major pain, and quite a bit longer until I’ve sorted myself out. That means that my time slot for the Burj Khalifa tour is long gone by the time I even make it down to the lounge for breakfast. Well, it looks like today’s going to be all about retail therapy then. Off to the Dubai Mall it is, I at least want to get some shots of that monster of a building.

So much for this being a lake

Gargantuan, but not imposing. The architects really did a good job here.

In most other countries, these high-rises would be impressive in their own right, but in Dubai, they are just dwarfed by the Burj Khalifa.

New buildings are springing up all around the Burj Khalifa complex.

Panorama on the link bridge between the Dubai Mall and Soukh al Bahar.

Given it’s gargantuan size, the Burj Khalifa feels surprisingly elegant, and not at all intimidating or imposing. The architects deserve full credit in that area. The lake surrounding the Burj Khalifa and the Dubai Mall is no lake, however, but a carefully maintained artificial pool, where it appears a whole lot of maintenance work is gone. At the same time, heavy construction work is underway all around the Burj Khalifa complex, and even on the Dubai Mall itself, meaning that a small café, that my parents had recommended as a particularly good vantage point for the evening fountain light shows, was all but walled-off. Still, I stumbled across one of the most dangerous stores I have ever encountered in my entire life: Book World by Kinokuniya! Their selection of books is simply eye-watering, and any comic book or manga fan should go there as well, just for their merchandise selection alone. Following a quick grab of some much needed reference literature, I continue my hunt through the mall, only to find myself crossing paths with something that looks suspiciously like a grey reef shark. I check again. Yep, there’s a huge aquarium right smack dab in the middle of Dubai Mall. Definitely something to keep in mind. First, however, it’s lunchtime. I opt to avoid the food court, and after some snooping around the mall, and discovering the ice skating rink, I find an Italian restaurant near a multi-level water sculpture. Kind of surreal, given that we’re basically in the desert. Still, the food is pretty good.

Given the desert nature of Dubai...

...it is sometimes surprising...

....just how many fountains and water installations are present all over the city.

After lunch, it’s back to the aquarium, and my gilled acquaintance from earlier on. The Dubai Aquarium and Underwater Zoo is a multi-level experience stretching across a significant portion of the Dubai Mall, and is pretty hard to miss it. There are multiple tour options available, I opt for a rather basic Aquarium, Underwater Zoo, and behind the scenes package, however there are numerous other options available, including packages for an up-close and personal meetings with some of the residents. Since there are some sizeable sharks in there, I pass on that, thank you very much. The underwater tunnel is pretty impressive, with rays, sharks, skates, skipjacks, and other fishes scurrying about above and around you. The large sharks generally mind their own business in the darker corners near the entrance and exit of the tunnel, clearly more used to a nocturnal lifestyle. Once through the tunnel, it is up one floor to the Underwater Zoo, and the behind the scenes part of the tour. The latter part is particularly impressive, as it clearly shows the inner workings of the entire operation, and the amount of work that is needed to keep this operation running. This is really the most interesting part of the whole show for me, although the underwater zoo, with its variety of different habitats, is pretty impressive in its own right. I’m not sure how I feel about the penguin habitat, though.

Once back outside, I decide to call it a day with regards to indoor attractions, and make my way to Dubai Creek, and what little is left of the “old” Dubai. Most of what is associated with the city these days only came to be in the last 15-20 years, and even the old part of Dubai only dates back to the 1950s-1970s. There are a few old buildings from the beginning of the 20th century in the Al Shindagha area of the city, although most of Dubais more ancient past has been erased here as well. Still, this area feels much more organic, much more authentic than the glass spires and towering skyscrapers along the Sheikh Zayed Road or around the Marina. It is also a nice place to enjoy a cooling breeze, although you shouldn’t venture too far from shade during the day, as the sun will invariably be scorching. In a way, the shoreline of the Dubai Creek near Al Ghubaiba Metro station really sums up Dubai in a nutshell. You have the dhows, ancient sailing vessels that have plied the seas surrounding the Arabian peninsula since time immemorial, almost unchanged except for the addition of a motor, the abras, traditional open water taxis, office buildings from the 1950s and 1960s, when Dubai was just finding its footing, while in the distance, modern skyscrapers glisten in the evening light, and aircraft, having just taken off at the nearby airport, soar overhead and link Dubai to the other major trading centres of this world, many of those aircraft proudly bearing the flag of the United Arab Emirates on their fins. 

This is where it all started.

Dubai Creek is still dominated by dhows and abras, as it has been for centuries.

This is how Dubai started out back in the 1960s and 1970s.

Most of the heritage buildings along this stretch of Dubai Creek are replicas.

It may be surprising given the huge container terminals down in Jebel Ali, but dhows still carry a surprising amount of cargo all across the gulf.

A fleet of abras waiting for new customers on the creek.

Dhows like this have changed little over the centuries, basically just trading their masts for engines.  A lot of them serve the smaller ports and islands in the Gulf, and I wouldn't be surprised if they do quite a bit of "grey area" trading with the country on the opposing shore of the gulf.

Ventilation towers for Al Ghubaiba metro station.

Okay, somebody explain me why Saudi Arabian Airlines operates a Triple Seven to Dubai, but only an A320 to Frankfurt?

Most of the traffic out of Dubai Airport...

...is operated by the home carrier, Emirates. No surprise there.

As the sun sets, I make my way back to the metro station, and to Dubai Mall. There is one last event I have on my to-do list that I definitely want to catch. Every night, the fountains in front of the Burj Khalifa, as well as powerful lights in the facade of the tower itself are used in conjunction with each other to produce a spectacular audiovisual display. Since this show is free, and repeated at regular intervals, this should be on the watch list of every visitor to Dubai. The bridge from the Dubai Mall to the Souk Al Bahar complex is one of the prime locations for this spectacle, and when I arrive there, it is predictably packed. What’s more, the water of the fountain pool/lake/whatever drives up the already high humidity, and by the time I arrive, it is positively sweltering. Still, the show itself is very impressive, the pressures at work in that fountain system, and the strain on the pipes must be absolutely enormous. Following the show, I drift through the Mall for a bit longer, before making my way back to my hotel.

After a quick dinner and nightcap in the lounge, I make my way up to my room. Following a few more attempts at long exposure photos, most of my last evening in Dubai is spent packing. While I’m aiming for a leisurely start back home the next morning, I also want to have as much of my stuff sorted as possible, as getting back to Ireland will be quite a slog, my flight will be landing in Dublin at ten past eight in the evening after a seven hour flight after all. Pretty soon after that is done, I drop into bed and am soon fast asleep.

To get back to Part 2, just click here. For the final leg of my trip, please click here to get to Part 4