The Other 'Dam - Weekend Trip Report Rotterdam

Going to Rotterdam for just two nights to sleep on an old ship? That’s dam(n) crazy, I certainly won’t disagree with that notion. However, I pride myself in NOT being normal, so I guess it’s just par for the course. And besides, it wasn’t my fault! My parents are to blame, don’t you see? Both of them needed a break from the daily grind, and my dad had come across a rather special “hotel” which I’m not going to spoil here. You’re going to have to keep reading to find out. And yes, I know I’m a cruel bastard! Anyway, Rotterdam, I thought? That’s not too far from Amsterdam Airport, isn’t it. Indeed it isn’t, and since train prices in the Netherlands are actually affordable, the plan was easily set. I would fly into Amsterdam while they made a road trip up from Speyer, and we would rendezvous in Rotterdam aboard the SS Rotterdam. Since this was a weekend trip, I wouldn’t even have to take time off, I’d just have to leave half an hour early. Thankfully, that wasn’t a problem, and so on Friday afternoon, I hopped into the back of a taxi in Ballincollig to make my way to the airport. Let me tell ya, it felt weird being up here while the sun was still (barely) shining. Once we got there, that is. A series of road accidents had all but shut down the South Ring, a four lane highway that acts as a bypass for all transit traffic coming in from West Cork or Kerry. The exit for Cork Airport was right in the middle of all of that gridlock. It took some creative driving by my taxi driver to get me to the airport, snaking through Cork’s southern suburbs. Still, I arrived at the airport earlier than I had thought. Hooray for taxi drivers with local knowledge!

With no hold luggage to check in, it was straight to security, and I cleared that in no time. After browsing through the airport shops for some gifts for my parents, and a travel adapter for my MacBook charger, I plonked down at the gate, and started typing the first few lines of this trip report. I hadn’t counted on the amazing sunset I was about to see. You see, Ireland had been plagued by fog for the last couple of days, and the next bank of low-lying cloud could already be seen moving in from the west, bringing with it some amazing lighting conditions. The terminal was drenched in a warm, golden glow that completely belied the cold outside on that day. My own weather forecast for that day stated that daytime highs might come in at around 8˚C, however by the time I reached the airport, we were already back down to 3˚, and it would drop even lower before I boarded.

If this looks cold, believe me, it was!

By the time my flight pulled into its stand, I had gotten tons of shots of that amazing light outside. Boarding was through Gate 4, which had recently been equipped with Cork’s second air bridge, and I hoped that I might FINALLY be able to board through one of these things here in Cork, especially given the outside temperatures. Well, no such luck. I was seated in Row 20, and all passengers from Row 15 backwards were advised to board through the rear door and airstairs. So it was down to the apron, walk to the rear of the aircraft, and up the stairs and back forward to my seat. Great, just great. And to top it off, once back inside, I couldn’t even get to my seat because some brain-amputated stag party morons were apparently already too drunk or too thick to understand the instructions of the gate staff and had barrelled their way through the airbridge. Thanks for reinforcing my deep disgust for stag/hen parties, guys!

Anyway, the middle seat in my row was empty, which left me with some privacy, and of course legroom is seldom an issue for me on Aer Lingus, even with my rather spherical build. Boarding was completed rather swiftly, and we soon pushed back from Stand 08 for our taxi out to Runway 35. Takeoff was swift and powerful, with a climb out right over the city centre, giving a great view of the entire Cork North Side, from Knocknaheeny and the Apple facility, to Blackpool, the Ladyswell Brewery, and my home right next to it, all the way to Glanmire and Tivoli. We left Ireland somewhere southwest of Youghal, and since we were flying into the waiting embrace of night, there was not much more to be seen, especially since much of the UK was covered in cloud. It seems as if Earth was trying to cover up the shameful affair of Brexit Britain.

Well-ordered estates, logical road networks, plenty of transit options. This definitely isn't Ireland anymore.

On the way to Gate D31. I really know that airport by heart by now.

On the ICD to Rotterdam. That's First Class, by the way.

That architect deserves a raise!

One last look at my train, an InterCity Direct continuing on to Breda.

The rest of the flight was quite nice and relaxing, and after a nice light dinner aboard, we began our descent into Schiphol Airport. One wouldn’t immediately expect it, but the Netherlands from the air at night is a spectacular sight, to say the least. A seemingly endless expanse of geometric shapes drawn by streetlights, the orange glow of the massive greenhouses, punctuated by pitch-black stretches of water. It really is quite something. The landing on Runway 04 is as smooth as ever, and the taxi to Gate D31 is so familiar by now that I almost know it by heart. Seriously. The Cork flights ALWAYS operate from Gate D31! The walkway to the terminal also feels very familiar, however, instead of turning left towards transit passport control and the Schengen gates, I turn right to get to immigration and Schiphol Plaza, which is also the train station. I still have to get to Rotterdam, after all. Train tickets in the Netherlands work a bit different than in Germany or Ireland. Everything is based on chip cards that you can get from actual physical retail outlets or vending machines. Tapping on and off is mandatory, similar to how Leap Cards work on Irish rail, or nol Cards do in Dubai. Once you’ve got that figured out, it is actually quite easy. 

My train to Rotterdam is an InterCity Direct, currently NS’s premier domestic train service. They are operated by ICRm coaches operated in a sandwich configuration between two Bombardier Traxx engines. German readers may know the Traxx family better under their Deutsche Bahn classification BR 146. If this seems a bit jury-rigged to you, you’re right. This type of train was pressed into service following the collapse of the Fyra services in 2013, when the ordered high speed trains for the dedicated Amsterdam-Schiphol-Rotterdam-Breda high speed line turned out to be wholly unfit for purpose. Still, as I was about to find out, they get the job done, and are actually quite comfortable. Plus, they’re fast. I less than half an hour, I was in Rotterdam Centraal.

And let me tell ya, that station is a sight to behold. Modern, airy, well laid out. I was to see more of that station on Sunday, but I’ll get to that. First, it was on to the Metro to get to my hotel, which was moored on the south bank of the Nieuwe Maas, the main river channel that runs through Rotterdam. Four stops on Line E later, I was at Rijnhaven metro station and just managed to catch the 77 bus to my final destination:

SS Rotterdam

What a huge load of ship...
(Image by U.K.Milde)

She sure is beautiful, though.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

Rotterdam was one of the first ships to ditch the large funnels and integrate the smokestacks in the masts, something pretty common on later cruise ships.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

Trust my parents, who were waiting for me, to find a hotel that was anything but ordinary. Built in 1956, the SS Rotterdam was the last great liner built for Holland America Line, and embodied the finest the post-war Netherlands had to offer. Her design was revolutionary for her time, with the traditional large funnels being replaced by twin smokestacks integrated into slim, elegant masts mounted two-thirds on the way aft. The ship entered service in 1959 on the Rotterdam-New York run. However, with the dawn of the jet age on the horizon, and the dynamic duo of Schiphol and KLM already making their presence as giants in the sky known, she would only operate as a liner for ten years before Holland America Line withdrew from scheduled transatlantic traffic. Rotterdam was converted into a cruise ship, something the designers at Rotterdam Drydock Co. had planned for from the beginning, and began a long and successful career as a cruise ship, eventually alternating between Caribbean cruises in the winter, and Alaska cruises during the summer. 

However, by the mid-1990s, the writing was on the wall for Rotterdam. Holland America Line was by now a mere shadow of its former self, having been taken over by Carnival Cruise Lines in 1989. The new owners decided that it was too costly to upgrade SS Rotterdam to meet the new SOLAS regulations. After a final farewell cruise in September 1997, she was sold to Premier Cruises and renamed SS Rembrandt. Strangely, the new owners were able to make Rembrandt SOLAS compliant for only half the USD 40 million that Carnival had given as the reason to decommission the ship. She continued to operate for Premier Cruises until that company folded in September 2000. She spend the next three years laid up in Freeport in the Bahamas, her fate uncertain.

Then, in 2003, the ship was transferred to a new owner, Steam Shipping Rotterdam BV, and, now back under the Dutch flag, was transferred to the Cammell Laird yard in Gibraltar, for long overdue maintenance and asbestos removal. Things were fare from straightforward, however. and the ship would continue to be bounced around from owner to owner, as well as from port to port, her odyssey eventually comprising Gibraltar, Wilhelmshaven, Cádiz, and Gdynia. Finally, after years of decontamination, maintenance, restoration and remodelling, Rotterdam, now back under her own name and in her classic light grey HAL paint scheme, was transferred to her final berth at Katendrecht in Rotterdam, in 2008. In 2009, she finally opened her doors to the public as a multifunctional venue comprising a museum, a hotel, several restaurants and bars, and a handful of shops. She also serves as a training establishment for a multitude of trades, from engineering and shipboard operations to hospitality. 

Enough with the history, already, how is it onboard? Breathtaking, that really describes it best. Rotterdam was the last “Ship of State”, representing the best the resurgent Netherlands had to offer in terms of engineering, art, culture, and hospitality. She was a floating ambassador of her country, and even now, after a thorough redesign, several owners, and almost sixty years of service, she exudes dignity and class from every weld, every rivet. Her restoration may have brought the ship up to modern standard, but the aesthetics of the 1950s and 1960s is evident throughout the ship, from the reception areas to the cabins. Speaking of which...

Room, or rather Cabin 1015. I like the mix of old and new.

You'd think this was a normal hotel room... if it weren't for the portholes.

The TV is obviously a new addition.

The "working" area of Cabin 1015. Significant parts of this trip report were written there, either in full, or as quick notes.

Cabin 1013, my parents cabin. This even has its own reception area.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

My parents had already arrived around lunchtime, and had gotten a chance to get a feel of the place. In fact, most of the images of SS Rotterdam in this article were made by my dad. They had also secured my own cabin, 1015, on the main deck just behind reception. To be fair, cabin was an understatement. That was a full blown stateroom, with separate working area and bedroom, almost rivalling my hotel room in Dubai for size. That reminds me, I still have to finish up parts three and four of that trip report. Anyway, back to the ship. My parents cabin, 1013, actually had a reception area. The furnishings were top notch, free wifi and a widescreen TV were standard, and in addition to a fully stocked, and outrageously expensive, mini bar, every cabin had their own Nespresso machine at their disposal. Now, while I’m certainly not a fan of that system due to the outrageous amount of garbage it produces, I can see how it can be an attractive option for some, and it certainly helped me get my caffeine fix when I needed it.

The Captain's Lounge just oozes style from every rivet.

The main entrance on the Main Deck. The reception, as well as my cabin, are to the left of this photo, while the  Captain's Lounge is to the right.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

SS Rotterdam at night.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

(Image by U.K.Milde)

One of the grand staircases.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

(Image by U.K.Milde)

SS Rotterdam in all her glory. A much more elegant ship than 99% of today's cruise ships!
(Image by U.K.Milde)

After I had gotten settled into my cabin, it was off to the Captains Lounge, conveniently located on the main deck just like our cabins. My mom had decided to stay in her cabin after a rather stressful journey, but my dad and I used the chance to FINALLY have a few beers together again, given that the last few years had not been really conducive to that kind of activity. The fact that the Captains Lounge was one hell of a stylish place to do so certainly helped, and that pianist should definitely be playing larger stages than a bar aboard SS Rotterdam. If you can rock Stevie Wonder, Robbie Williams and Dave Brubeck with just a piano, you know you’re good. And by god, his version of Take Five was just amazing. What? You don’t know Take Five? Get out, stand in the corner, and hang your head in shame! Still, given that I had had a full working day before hopping on the plane to Amsterdam, we both turned in for the night, although I made a detour via my MacBook first, syncing my photos and getting a bit more work on this trip report done. 

The next day was to be a day of two halves. The morning was dominated by a great breakfast with my parents in the Lido Restaurant on the Promenade Deck. It is expensive as hell, but the quality and quantity were more than worth it. Then, it was on to getting some shopping done. There’s some stuff available in the Netherlands that you just can’t get in Germany, and no, I’m NOT referring to certain “herbal” remedies. So, we spent most of the morning raiding a shopping center for what felt like several tons of stroopwafels, ontbijtkoek, the latter of which forms a key ingredient in our traditional Christmas dinner, and other bits and bobs that are hard to get in southern Germany. Or Ireland, for that matter. After returning to the ship, and dividing the spoils, I made my way into Rotterdam proper, in order to see at least some parts of the city before leaving for Cork early on Sunday, as the original plan was. And I decided to do so in style. 

The boat deck is a pretty got vantage point for observing the activity on the shuttle deck, I mean boarding platform. I really should watch less Star Trek....
(Image by U.K.Milde)

(Image by U.K.Milde)

The water taxis were busy that afternoon. Their wakes should give you an idea of their speeds.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

Approaching Rotterdam to pick up some passengers...
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...and heading back out. Time is money, after all.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

This is how it looks from one of those water taxis.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

It looks rather chilly...

The Hotel New York is actually the former HQ of Holland America Line, the  former owners of SS Rotterdam. Nowadays, the hotel and the ship are operated by the same group, Westcord Hotels.

SS Rotterdam sports a boarding platform for water taxis on B Deck. Despite being more expensive than the bus/metro combination, it is a much more convenient way to get from the ship to the city and back. Tickets can be bought directly onboard the taxi, or from the reception aboard Rotterdam. The advantage of the latter option is that they also radio ahead for the next available water taxi, reducing the waiting time. So, I made my way down to B Deck, expecting a leisurely cruise up the Nieuwe Maas. Man, was I ever wrong. You see, those water taxis are in effect speed boats, driven by powerful water jet engines, and with a hull design reminiscent of WW2 torpedo boats. That also summed up the driving style of my driver, which was eerily reminiscent of a young Lieutenant Kennedy and his boat, PT-109. Now I know where he got his back problems from.

Still, it was quite a ride. Zipping under the Erasmusbrug at twenty-six knots or more is quite exhilarating, as is dodging river freighters trudging their way to the actual port of Rotterdam further downstream. Plus, the inner-city terminal of the service is at Leuvehaven, right next to Rotterdam’s Maritime Museum. That puts you pretty much right in the city center, just a few minutes walk from Lijnbaan, the main shopping street, and other sights. However, if you’re looking for a traditional dutch city, I recommend that you keep looking. Due to its importance as a port, Rotterdam was heavily attacked by both sides during World War 2, leaving most of the city in ruins. Rather than trying to recreate what was lost, it was decided to build something completely new, which resulted in Rotterdam getting a US-style skyline. Bad luck if you’re looking for old European charm, although there are pockets of that all throughout the city. Good luck for fans of contemporary architecture like me. I didn’t spend much time going after the sights of the city. As always with a first visit, I tried to get a feel for the place, get an idea of the distances involved, so don’t expect a rundown of all the sights and attractions of the city.

Leuvehaven. Many of the vessels moored here are part of the National Maritime Museum.

The same goes for a number of cranes, etc. 

From towering cranes to towering buildings. You have to admit, it's consistent.

This gives you a bit of an idea of how things must have been during the days of Leuvehaven as an active wharf.

Now, let's just jump forward a century or two.

Sorry, can't talk. Gotta hurry!

Okay, now what century are we in again?

Looking along the waterfront.

Memorial to the lives lost during the German Occupation.

I'm not sure I want to know what THAT architect was thinking....

There's still bits of the "old" Rotterdam to be found.

Tommy want  big boom...

I do admit I like public sculptures like this. Cork could do with a few more of them.

You're never far from water in this country, it seems.

Old, meet new.

Some attempts at daytime long exposures...

...with mixed results.

Lijnbaan, Rotterdam's main shopping street. 1950s architecture at its finest.

Back on the shuttle.

That sky....

Approaching the ship...

Skies like these help me understand some of the paintings of the Dutch masters, like Breughel, Vermeer, or Rembrandt.

My exploration of the city was cut short by fading light. I made my way back to the Leuvehaven to catch a water taxi back to SS Rotterdam. As we roared out onto the river, the sun was beginning to set, casting a magical light over the river and the city that completely belied the freezing temperatures. It seemed as if the light got ever more spectacular the closer we got to the ship. Of course, I had to get some photos of that sunset, even if that meant that I was almost frozen stiff by the time I got back inside. After warming up in the Captains Lounge (I highly recommend the hot chocolate!), it was off to the cabin to download the photos from the camera, and get a bit more of this trip report done. Also, I had to recharge my headphones for the return trip, and check in online for the flight to Cork. My dad had used the downtime aboard SS Rotterdam to thoroughly explore the ship, taking photos of what appeared to be every nook and cranny. In fact, 95% of the pictures of the ship in this article were made by him, and I'm grateful to be able to use them for my blog.

Taking on supplies.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

Entrance to the conference areas on the lower deck.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

If anyone STILL doesn't know what ship we're talking about, this should sort him out.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

The Promenade Deck outside the Lido restaurant.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

On the fo'c's'le
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Looking forward (I think) on the upper boat deck.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

Artifacts in the ship museum.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

Lifeboats on the boat deck.
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The ship's bell.
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She still looks great, even today.

Could do with an update of her onboard electronics, though. ;)
(Image by U.K.Milde)

(Image by U.K.Milde)

The captain's ready room.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

Grand Staircase
(Image by U.K.Milde)

Looking aft to the quarterdeck and pool. Given the temperatures, its no wonder the pool is deserted.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

Rottedam's nerve center - the bridge.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

Forward promenade.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

One of the ships radars.
(Image by U.K.Milde)

(Image by U.K.Milde)

The crest of SS Rotterdam on the main deck.

Then again, he is a co-author over here, so I guess it serves his interests just as much as mine. Still, I had to get the images over to my MacBook, which took some time as well. So, there was enough to keep me busy, and before I knew it, it was time to head to dinner in the Lido restaurant up on the promenade deck. Once again, it wasn’t cheap, but the quality was once again amazing, I can highly recommend it.

Then it was back to the cabin for what I thought would be the final time. The alarm was set for 5.45 AM, as I still had to take a taxi to Rotterdam Central to catch a train to Amsterdam in order to get my 9.30 flight to Cork. As i packed my bags, charged my devices, and turned in for the night, I had no idea that my travel plans had begun to unravel big time.

Yay -.-

The alarm clock went off far too early for my taste. After getting myself sorted out, I checked my phone. Right up at the top of notifications was a text message from Aer Lingus. EI841, my flight from Amsterdam back to Cork, had been cancelled. Great. Just great. Just what I needed at 6 AM! Well, there’s no use in crying over spilled milk. So, I quickly rebooked my flight, there were still spaces available on EI845, the evening flight. Getting the taxi to the train station cancelled was a different matter. For some reason I couldn’t get through via the cabin phone, so I quickly threw on some clothes, and made my way to the reception. Now it turned out to be a good thing that the reception was on the same deck. After messaging my mom that she wouldn’t have to stand up to see me off, I dropped back into bed for two extra hours of sweet slumber. 

By the time I woke up, my parents were up as well. Over breakfast in the Lido restaurant, I hammered out my contingency plan. Now that I had time, I decided to take the long way to Amsterdam, via The Hague. Then spend a few hours in Amsterdam, before making my way to the airport, chilling for a bit in the Swissport Aspire Lounge. Well, the best laid plans of men and mice…

However, that was still in the future as I made my way down to the water taxi boarding platform. Hey, if you are going to depart a ship, you might as well do so in style. Once across the river in the Leuvehaven, I made my way to Rotterdam Centraal on foot. This trip reinforced my opinion that Rotterdam was a US city transplanted into the Netherlands. And quite frankly, only walking up to the train station really makes you appreciate the striking architecture of the revamped concourse and station hall. That architect certainly deserves a medal for the design.

Departing the ship for the last time.

Rotterdam or New York?

Approaching Rotterdam Centraal.

I love architects that think outside the box. Something rarely seen in Germany or Ireland, though.

The interior is equally striking.

Once on the station, it turned out the long way to Amsterdam was out of the question. The route via The Hague was closed due to track maintenance. So, it was back onto an ICD for the direct trip to Amsterdam. The train ride was as comfortable as I’d come to expect. There was just one question in my mind. How does a nation that is already mostly below sea level able of putting so many goddamn tunnels all over the place? Seriously, under the sea AND underground? As for Amsterdam, my first impression was distinctly underwhelming. Amsterdam Centraal was being remodelled, and pretty chaotic. The station forecourt was a mess, and the entire place was completely overrun with twenty-somethings, idiot aerials (selfie sticks) were in evidence all around, and there was a distinct note of pot floating around the place. 

ICD to Rotterdam.

I hopped on a tram to check out the Rijksmuseum. Big mistake. That place was even more overrun than the station area, and going in there was out of the question. I just wanted some peace and quite. So, I just decided to drift through the streets of Amsterdam, slowly meandering back to the station, hoping to burn enough time that I’d be able to hop onto a train to the airport by the time I arrived at Amsterdam Centraal. I hadn’t counted on the weather, because damn, it was cold again. I quickly dropped into the Apple Store at Leidseplein to warm up. Well, to be honest, I also wanted to try out the new MacBook Pro with Touchbar, only to find that the additional functionality, while intriguing, certainly did NOT justify the enormous jump in prices. 

Yea, thanks, but no thanks.

Ice skating rink outside the museum. Little did I know that this would have a rather detrimental effect on the health of one of my colleagues who happened to be in Amsterdam at the same time....

The trams in Amsterdam are SO 1990s...

Love the architecture, though.

An airline you can trust? From the look of that office, I don't think so.

That gives you a bit of an impression of how busy it was.

Rembrandtsplein.

Panorama at Amsterdam Centraal.

Now that's more my style...

Eventually, after a late lunch, and passing through numerous clouds of Marijuana smoke, seriously, drive-by hits are easily possible, I made my way to the station. Still a lot of time to burn, but I decided to cut my losses, and make my way to the airport. At least I knew that the heating worked there. I was also able to avoid yet another ICR ride, catching one of NS’s iconic double-deckers, only to find that the headroom on the upper deck is limited, to say the least. Still, it’s a nice ride. At Schiphol, I once again make my way straight to the gate area. However, once again, things aren’t straightforward. There are massive queues at security, plus, my bags get singled out for special screening. That’s the first time my camera batteries have been singled out and caused problems. Anyway, once airside, I’m on very familiar territory. I know the airport, know where to shop, although I didn’t do any actual shopping on this trip, and most importantly, I know where to relax. After a few hours in the lounge, it’s on to Gate D31 for my flight home, although from my experience, Cork already begins  halfway up Pier D, when you start hear more and more voices talking in a Cork accent. 

Thalys High Speed Train continuing on to Brussels.

My train to the airport. The photo was actually taken two days earlier at Schiphol Airport.

Not much in the way of headroom on the upper deck...

Unlike the flight out, the flight back is anything but comfortable. The cancellation of the morning flight has left the evening flight packed to the rafters. In addition, once we leave the Netherlands behind, there’s nothing to see outside, it is simply pitch-black. It is only when I see the lights of Crosshaven, Carrigaline and the other towns along Cork Harbour, that I regain my bearings. As I’ve come to expect from landings in Cork, the touchdown is hard, the braking brutal. As I extricate myself from the seat in front of me, I notice that we’re the only aircraft on the ground. All stands are available. And yet, despite that, rather than taxiing to one of the stands right in front of the terminal, we’re assigned to stand 13, way out in front of the air cargo building, and are asked to walk to the terminal. Seriously? Can anyone explain the logic behind that? Because I certainly can’t see it, and walking past three aircraft stands and across two active service roadways to get to the terminal certainly does not seem like anything you’d want to do to passengers if you can help it. Anyway, within ten minutes of leaving the aircraft, I’m in a taxi heading back into the city and to my home.

Packed to the rafters.

Back in Cork, and on Stand 13. Don't ask me why, ask Cork Airport, or Aer Lingus.

So, what remains of this pretty much insane trip? Certainly a desire to return to Rotterdam for a longer period of time, the city is certainly very interesting and intriguing. As for Amsterdam, I’m not sure that I’d like to return to that place, given how overrun the place is with tourists, especially early-20s backpackers and/or hipsters. And that’s before all the potheads, both domestic and foreign. What sticks in my mind most though is SS Rotterdam, the transatlantic liner converted into a hotel that’s moored in Rotterdam. It is unlike any hotel I’ve ever been on, and while it has been thoroughly modernized, it oozes the style and class of the liners of the 1950s and 1960s from every weld, every rivet. I can highly recommend it. I’ll certainly be back.